Ok, I didn’t really get bitten by a shark in Byron … but that’s what I’m telling people when they ask what the scar on my right thigh is from!
I drove up to Byron for New Years 2009-10 with the intention to spend a week relaxing, celebrating and shopping. It was all going to plan (with a cheeky surf thrown in!) when a mate cajoled me into surfing again.
We hired boards and were having a fun time, catching a few smaller waves when a big wave (by my standards) came along. In a stroke of genius I thought it would be a great idea to try and catch it. So there I am paddling my little heart out when the wave swells up behind me and … dumps me. Hard. Under the water I was flailing around, trying to make sense of which way was up when I felt a pull on the leg rope and moments later a hard thud as the surf board and fins hurled into my thighs.
Four stitches later and I now reckon I have some surfer cred because I’ve had my first (and hopefully only) ‘fin chop’.
Categories: surfing
Tags: byron bay, fin chop, surf
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